Stratocaster Neck Plate
Stratocaster Neck Plate
Setting the intonation on a guitar makes sure that the notes higher up the fretboard, towards the body are in tune. If you have tuned the guitar correctly, but notes played on the upper frets are out of tune, or if you find that chords played in the first position are in tune, but when the same chords played as barre chords further up the neck, they are "out", chances are you need to set your intonation.
The Theory
The pitch of a vibrating string is determined by its length, diameter, mass and tension. When you fret a note you are effectively reducing the length of the string (scale) - thus raising it's pitch. Unfortunately, when you push the string down to the fret, it is also stretched - which raises the tension and sharpens the note slightly. This effect increases as you fret closer to the bridge (as shorter scale lengths are more sensitive to variations in tension). To compensate for this, the scale length is increased by moving the saddle further away from the nut.
Checking the intonation
Before you do anything, make sure your strings are in good condition - strings cause more intonation problems than anything else, so ideally fit a new set before checking the intonation. Also make sure the guitar is properly in tune, as different tunings need different intonation settings.
Now check the intonation of each string separately by playing the note on the 12th fret (one octave above the open string), then compare it to either the 12th fret harmonic (the same note) or the open string (an octave lower). A digital tuner is likely more accurate than your ear, so use one if you have it.
If both notes have exactly the same pitch, the intonation is correct. If the pitch of the fretted note is sharper of the two notes, the guitars saddle should be moved away from the nut, if the fretted note is flatter, the saddle must be moved towards the nut.
Adjusting the intonation
Acoustic guitars - do not allow adjustment of the scale length - although most steel-string saddles are angled to improve intonation. If an adjustment is necessary, it may be possible to compensate by re-shaping the top of the saddle. If this is the case, you should probably take the guitar to a luthier.
Arch-top guitars - often have a floating bridge which can be moved freely backwards and forwards, held down only, by the pressure of the strings. These will usually need to be angled slightly towards the nut on the treble side of the bridge.
Floating bridges - Set the treble E string first. Push and hold the bar down, loosen the Allen bolt at the very front of the saddle, Move the saddle in the desired direction and tighten the bolt. Release the bar and retune (i.e. loosen the lock nut, retune all the strings, and tighten the locks again). Check the intonation again and repeat. Then move to the second saddle and repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat.
Gibson style "Tune-O-Matic" bridges - Each string sits on a small metal insert that acts as it's own saddle. These can be moved backwards and forwards individually by means of small screws located at the back of the bridge. It makes no difference which string you do first. Just remember to retune between each and every adjustment.
"Strat" style bridges - Small screws mounted at the back of base plate control the position of the saddle for each string. It makes no difference which string you do first. Just remember to retune between each and every adjustment.
"Telecaster" style bridges (with only three saddles) - These allow the strings to be adjusted in pairs, the intonation settings are always a compromise. Consider upgrading the bridge to one which has six separate saddles. The setting method for these is the same as for a "Strat" style bridge.
General Points
The theory and method of adjustment is the same for basses as for guitars. Retune between each and every adjustment. By moving the saddle you change the pitch and tension of the entire string - and this will affect the intonation readings. If you change gauge of strings, or change to an altered tuning, your intonation will probably need adjustment. Sometimes, a different type or make of string will change the intonation so it needs readjusting. This is due to different compounds having different masses and tensions.
Read more guitar articles at http://articles.guitarforum.co.za
HELP with Identify ELECTRIC GUITAR?
Hi,
I have a guitar that I cannot find anything on? I want to know the maker and possible year it was made. HERE SI LINK TO PICS
http://s488.photobucket.com/albums/rr249/thebam1332/
It is electric, possibly vintage, it looks like a fender stratocaster, but there is no word fender on it anywhere, It has a plate on the back with serial # 099629. On the top of the neck, it says series 70 or series 7?
i have pictures, but cannot upload here. any help would be greatly appreciated.
thank you,
B
I believe this guitar is a Bently Series 10, likely from the 1980s. There isn't a lot of info available about these, but from what I can figure they were budget copies of Strats, Teles and Les Pauls. I think Bently a line used by St. Louis Music, who also owns Crate, Alvarez, etc, so I bet they were sold out of the Mall based music stores that were around in the 80s. I don't think SLM currently uses the brand anymore.
Custom built Mahogany Strat
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